Showing posts with label Maine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Maine. Show all posts

Dyce Head Lighthouse in Castine, Maine


Another light house in the quiver of Familyroadtrippers. Me and the kids went for a side trip along with my Dad to Dyce Head Light in Castine, Maine. Tinsley stayed back at Dad's to fix the zipper on our tent (it's what she wanted to do). The drive from Belfast to Castine is beautiful and worth a day trip.

Dyce head light house is a private residence but there's an access trail that goes along side down to a rocky cliff at the shore. This not a place where you want the little ones running around.




After the visit, head down to the Castine waterfront for hot dogs, hamburgers, lobster rolls and/or ice cream.

City Guide: Belfast, Maine


A waterfront city with magnificent downtown buildings is experiencing a wonderful renewal.

I'm a little prejudiced towards Belfast, Maine. Much of my family lives there, I visit whenever I can, and it feels like home. Home away from home, anyway. We've written about Belfast in the past.

My mom wrote about it when she was in elementary school:

Belfast is a little city
Nestled by the sea.
It's not much, but what the heck
It's good enough for me!

Belfast has gotten even better since then.
The harbor is full of boats, the waterfront is buffered by a park, the downtown is thriving with stores, restaurants, and service providers. And no big box sprawl to speak of. There are big stores, but no sprawling strip like almost every other town in America. The Victorian and classic revival buildings downtown are occupied and busy. There's even a new hotel in an old downtown building shooting for four or five stars. When I remember the name of it, I'll link to it.

If 4 star suites don't fit your bill, the Northport Campground fills in the other end of the spectrum.
We have a very big tent, and we camp there frequently. A tent site is $23 per night, so a week's worth of camping costs the same as a night at the Comfort Inn (every room has a great view of the bay), which is where we stay when camping won't work.

There's a footbridge over the river that feeds the harbor.
The name of the river is the Passagassawakeag River, which is Indian for "Pass a gassy wax egg". I'm not exactly sure what that means; I think maybe something got lost in the translation, but the kids sure enjoy saying it. And the footbridge is fun to run across if you're a kid. It's also a popular fishing spot.

Belfast City Park is a great place to spend the better part of a day.
Playgrounds, tennis courts, basketball courts, a city pool, picnic spots with built-in barbecue grills overlooking Pennobscott Bay. Rolling grassy areas shaded by mature trees. There's even a hot dog/hamburger stand. Why would anyone ever want to leave?

To go to Perry's Nut House, of course.
It's a combination wacky-stuff-candy-nuts-chocolate-fudge store and a weirdy museum. If that makes any sense. Goofy kids toys, books, treats, mummies, and shrunken heads. Not to forget the funny mirrors. And the carousel ride out front goes forever on 50 cents. An excellent value and a good way to amuse youngsters.

The Belfast Coop has good foods and great coffee.
And newspapers if you want one. And wine, beer, meat and cheese.

The Army-Navy store has some odd camp essentials
I went into the Army-Navy store downtown looking for enameled steel coffee mugs and mantels for out Coleman lantern. They had the mugs, but not the mantels. As we were about to leave, I looked up to see a Martin Backpacker guitar. I've been leaving my full size guitar at home over the years because it won't fit in the car and it's too expensive an instrument to take camping or road tripping. The Martin Backpacker isn't that valuable ($200). But what it lacks in value, it gains in portability. What a great score. Who knew an Army-Navy store would sell guitars (they had other styles too)? My kind of Army-Navy store.

One more landmark in Downtown Belfast is Colburn's Shoe store, the oldest shoe store in the country. And my Grammy used to work there when she was a girl. I bought my shoes there as a kid and convinced Tinsley to buy a pair there last month. She was thrilled with the experience, the shoes, and the nice folks who work there.

LL Bean -- A Great Pit Stop



America's most famous outdoor store makes a great 24 hour destination for family travelers. Fishing, hunting, hiking, and camping gear galore. As well as just about anything else a Maine traveler could need...

We're in New Orleans right now. Last week we were in Belfast, Maine helping the city of Belfast celebrate my Grandfather's 100th birthday. They named him Citizen of the Century, which is quite an honor.

On the way home, we stopped in to LL Bean's store. We normally avoid Freeport to keep out of the traffic, but it really is a cool store worth visiting every so often. When I was a kid, my Mom would stop there every time we drove to Belfast. "It's open 24 hours kids, no matter what time you stop there, they'll be open!" I don't know if she was just trying to get us excited about it or if she was genuinely excited about that, but that's what she'd say. Every time. And we'd stop.

The store was renovated since those days, now there's an indoor fish pond, aquarium, and climbing rocks for testing out the boots. And there's a big kids section. All in all it's a pretty cool stop for kids, as long as they understand it's a store, not a playground.

And when you're in Freeport, buy an ice cream at Derosiers, just a wee bit south on RT 1 from LL Bean.

Buy Ice Cream Here--Derosiers Market


First Winner of a big Thumbs Up: Derosiers Market in Freeport, Maine. I've been getting ice cream here at Derosiers since I was about five years old. My Dad just kept stopping there. Guess what I'm doing every time I drive through Freeport?

Yup, stopping for ice cream at Derosiers.

This most recent trip, the gal scooping the scoops was smart enough to downsize the kid's scoop sizes, and nice enough to only charge us for one scoop. Because they were small scoops.

And she was a teenager! What gives?

Family Adventure Spots in New England

From Yankee Magazine recently...

Family Adventure Spots in New England

Whitewater Rafting Deerfield River, Northwestern Massachusetts>Mountain Biking Kingdom Trails, East Burke, Vermont
Sea KayakingWickford Harbor, Rhode Island
Camping Acadia National Park, Mount Desert Island, Maine
Biking Province Lands, Provincetown, Massachusetts
Canoeing Umbagog Lake, New Hampshire

Stephen Jermanok, travel writer and father of two young children, reveals his favorite family adventure spots. Some of them may surprise you. Get ready for New England's best adventures in whitewater rafting and biking in Massachusetts, mountain biking in Vermont, sea kayaking in Rhode island, camping in Maine, and canoeing in New Hampshire.

Pet-Friendly New England Travels

There's a cool guide to pet-friendly travel guide at the Boston Globe's web site, here. Places to roam with Rover, dog-friendly parks in Boston, pet-friendly lodging, pet-friendly attractions, dog parks and trails, and Boston kennels.

Also, a photo gallery of travel pals.

Kid and Dog friendly lodging in Belfast, ME

Rather than trying top zoom straight through from Portland to Acadia -- and miss some of the best parts of coastal Maine -- slow down, spend a night in Camden or Belfast.

Belfast is a nice little city in mid-coast Maine. Belfast is a whole lot less crowded in the summer, and it's closer to Acadia. One good place to stay, with a view of Penobscot Bay from every room, is the Comfort Inn, just over the bridge over Passagassawaukeg River on Rt 1.

The inn has an indoor pool, a "continental breakfast" and allows dogs for a mere $10 extra. They have suites, king rooms with kitchenettes, and regular rooms.

And there's a great little Thai restaurant across the street.

Seadog Brewing Company: Best. Sandwich. Ever.

Maybe the best pit stop in mid-coast Maine. Nay, the Best. Pit stop. in Mid-coast Maine.

Most of the way through an eight hour drive to Belfast, ME we stopped for dinner. Where you get off I-95 for Rt. 1 is Topsam, ME. A little over a mile from the exit is The Seadog -- a comfortable kid-friendly brewpub restaurant offering many yummy local brews, yummy burgers, yummy fish and chips and dining on the deck next to the Androscoggin River.

When we go there, which is oftener and oftener, I typically get a burger. Because I like a burger and a beer. But Tinsley always opts for the Tuna steak sandwich because it's on the menu. And she would feel foolish ordering a burger when she could have the tuna steak sandwich with radish sprouts and wasabi mayo. She likes it as rare as possible so that it's almost a sushi sandwich. Usually she's delighted with the sandwich. This time she said "Absolutely, the Best. Sandwich. Ever."

But what do you really think, Tinsley?

Thanksgiving Memories

The Familyroadtrippers blog was featured a couple of days ago in a Portland Press Herald article about Thanksgiving road trip memories. Tom Bell, the author of the article, stumbled across this post about my most memorable Thanksgiving, a road trip to Maine through a snow storm to have a wonderful diner at my Grandparent's house.

Carved into memories

The excitement of travel and traditions of families can create vivid experiences that last a lifetime.

It was a Thanksgiving travel nightmare for his mother, but Daniel Morrison still remembers it as a "magical" journey.

He was 5 years old, riding in the back seat of a rusted-out Volkswagen Beetle as his mom drove from Massachusetts to Belfast. They ran into a surprise snowstorm and ended up staying overnight in a hotel somewhere north of Portland. The next day, he arrived at his grandparents' farmhouse just in time for the Thanksgiving feast.

"I always think of that particular Thanksgiving," said Morrison, now 43. "When you are driving through the night in a blizzard and the wind is whipping through the floorboards, it carves its way into memory."

more...

Thanks for the plug Tom!

Upper Penobscott Bay, part 2: Bucksport, Maine

Bucksport has great attractions: A haunted, spooky grave, a huge granite and grass fort, and an observatory that's 42 stories high



North of Belfast and Searsport is a little town called Bucksport on the Penobscott River which is guarded by Fort Knox. The fort was built in the middle if the 19th century to deter British invasion (the Redcoats closed off the river twice -- during the Revolution and the War of 1812).
The bridge over the Penobscott River has recently been replaced and the new one features the fastest elevator in Maine shooting up to an observatory that offers views spanning from Camden in the south to Mount Katahdin in the northwest. But there's more than a fort and a bridge to Bucksport.
There's a legend.

Begin with the curse of Johnathan Buck
The town of Bucksport is named after Col. Jonathan Buck, a Revolutionary war hero and one of the first settlers of the area in 1762. After the British seized the "plantation" to choke off the lumber communities up river (Bangor among them) from supporting the colonists in the revolt, the town lay dormant. It was resettled after we whooped the king.

But there's more to the story. A whole spooky-lot more. Look at the stocking foot on Col Buck's grave stone. Where did this come from? How could it appear even after replacing the original stone? The curse of Johnathan Buck first appeared in the Haverhill (Massachusetts, Buck's home town) Gazette on Marsh 22, 1899:

"Jonathan Buck was a Puritan to whom witchcraft was anathema. When a woman was accused of witchcraft, he sentenced her to be executed. Then according to the paper, "the hangmen was about to perform his gruesome duty when the woman turned to Col. Buck and raising one hand to heaven, as if to direct her last words on earth, pronounced this astounding prophecy: ‘Jonathan Buck, listen to these words, the last my tongue will utter. It is the spirit of the only true and living God which bids me speak them to you. You will soon die. Over your grave they will erect a stone that all may know where your bones are crumbling into dust. But listen, upon that stone the imprint of my feet will appear, and for all time, long after you and you accursed race have perished from the earth, will the people from far and wide know that you murdered a woman. Remember well, Jonathan Buck, remember well."
Many other variations of this tale are here.

Burn off some steam at America's First Fort Knox!
The other Fort Knox is near Louisville, Kentucky and is full of gold, so you can't run around and play. Fortunately, this Fort Knox is mostly empty, save for some cannons, so running through the battlements and over the grass is perfectly acceptable.

After the drive to Bucksport and viewing the spooky grave, it'll be about time for lunch, the fort is a great place for a picnic. To make it easy, pick up a couple of sandwiches, or (lobster rolls) across the river in Bucksport and bring them over to the fort. Explore for a half hour until you find a picnic spot and then let the kids loose.

If you're a photography freak, bring a tripod for interior shots (it's dark in there and flash doesn't always do justice to what you're looking at). Which reminds me, bring a flashlight. Or two or one for each of you. If the kids each have a flashlight, they'll be busy running around the dark spots and it'll be easier to scare the pants off them in the dark, dark prisoner cells...


Top off the day way up over the bay (well, river to be exact)
One of three bridge observatories in the world, the Penobscott Narrows Observatory has one of the the best views in the state (world?). The other two are in Thailand and Bankok. This 420 foot tall observation tower is part of the new bridge that runs next to the old bridge offering a structural contrast of 20th and 21st century bridge building. Open and accessible to all from May through October, you buy a ticket at Fort Knox, across the river.

Tip: Good place for Leaf-peeping!

Upper Penobscott Bay: Belfast and Bayside, Maine

Belfast and Bayside have everything except crowds.

Camden, Rockport, and Rockland area are nice, but let's face it -- they're crowded. Sometimes they're very crowded (usually). Among the best sailing, but also great places to explore, eat, shop, and drive around. There is even a lighthouse to visit.



As a kid, I spent summers in the cottage we bought from my great Aunt Alice in Northport. In a community called Temple Heights Spiritualist Camp (there are Spiritualist meetings each night during the summer). We weren't Spiritualists, and there weren't many kids in Temple Heights, just a bunch of old people going to Spiritualist meetings.

Up the dirt road three miles was a community called Bayside, which is another settlement of Victorian cottages, but with many more kids. And a playground. And we spent a lot of time there each summer. A dock with both a swimming float and a boating float, a playground, basketball court, beach, and big grassy hill provided almost more entertainment options that a bunch of kids could exhaust. Nowadays, the dirt road is asphalt and not nearly as desolate. But it's still a pretty drive (or bike ride).

Further up the road maybe 10 miles is Belfast, the city of this section of Maine Coast. Belfast has had a bit of a renaissance in the past couple of decades. But the Gothic Revival buildings downtown and Greek Revival sea captain's houses have always been classic. The working waterfront (lead photo) has a couple of tugboats, a breakwater, a long grassy park for goofing around in, and a seafood restaurant.

There are also plenty of opportunities for shopping with art galleries, gift stores, clothing and the oldest shoe store in America, Colburn's Shoe Store, where I used to buy my shoes as a kid. Come to think of it, I suppose I ought to stop in and buy a pair of Hush Puppies next time I'm in town.

Keep rambling up the road to Searsport, an old fishing town with some of the most beautiful houses you'll see along the Maine coast. Before you make it to Searsport though, stop in to Perry's Nut House across the river in Belfast. The kids will love it. If you like looking at architecture, spend a little time tooling around Searsport. You can also stop in to Treasures and Trash, an antique/junk store in a big red barn.

A Lighthouse That's Worth the Climb

Owl's Head Light offers an amazing view of Penobscot Bay.

Located just south of Rockland, ME atop a long stretch of stairs, perched on a rock outcrop sits Owl's Head Light. This side trip makes a great after-dinner activity. The stairs tire out the kids and offer a wonderful reward for very little effort. Get up there an hour before sunset and you might capture some magical light.

This could be a fantastic place to peep leaves, if you're a foliage aficionado.

To get there, take Route 73 south from Rockland to N. Shore Drive. Turn left just after the Owl’s Head Post Office (about 2.5 miles) onto Main Street and then Lighthouse Road. Follow the signs to the lighthouse.

More Leaf-Peeper Drives in New England

New England's fall foliage is the best in the country. And it's just starting to pop. Usually the peak is around early to mid October, but if you miss it in one area, just drive a bit south and look there.

Try this 85 mile loop beginning in Torrington, CT:
Don't miss the covered bridge in Cornwall.


View Larger Map


And a 185 mile loop in northern Maine, beginning and ending in Skowhegan (You'll probably want to stop over at Moosehead lake for a night or two):


View Larger Map

There are many web sites for tracking the progress, here are a few of them:
www.yankeefoliage.com
www.maine.gov/doc/foliage
www.foliagenetwork.com

Wacky Summer Festivals in America

America is full of festivals, contests, and competitions. Some are earnest, others completely wacky. Here are 12 that register high on our Outlandish Meter.
(Edited from Fodor’s wire)

International Cherry Pit Spitting Contest
When: July 7
Where: Eau Claire, in Southwest Michigan
How many times did your mother tell you not to play with your food? Well now you can show her who's boss when you bring home the trophy for the 34th annual Cherry Pit Spitting Contest. Qualifying Rounds start at 10 a.m. and the championships start at 1 p.m. If you're not into spitting, you can pick cherries, eat cherries, and celebrate all things cherry. www.treemendus-fruit.com/int.htm

Milk Carton Derby

When: July 7
Where: Southwest Corner of Seattle's Green Lake
More than 100 sea-faring vessels constructed of 50 half-gallon cartons take to the lake for this annual event. If you can't get your sea legs, there are numerous activities on shore to entertain. There's also the Canine Fashion Show. www.seafair.com

Talkeetna Moose Dropping Festival
When: July 14--15
Where: Talkeetna, Alaska
There are lots of events in this annual fundraiser, although no animals are dropped, despite the name. The festival does call for the handling, however, of some unpleasant animal byproducts. For instance, there's the Moose Drop Dropping Raffle and the Moose Poop Toss Game. There's also the Mountain Mother Contest on Sunday that highlights the strength and endurance of Alaskan Moms, who must compete in a variety of activities with a "baby" strapped to their backs. www.talkeetnahistoricalsociety.org/

Central Maine Egg Festival When: July 23--28
Where: Pittsfield, Maine
For 35 years this New England town has been celebrating the incredible, edible egg -- brown eggs to be exact. This year's theme is "Staying Egg-Alive." There's an early-bird breakfast, which uses the world's largest frying pan, the "Egglympics," a chicken barbecue, and a whole lot more egg-tastic fun. http://eggfest.craftah.com/


Great Texas Mosquito Festival When: July 26--28
Where: Clute Municipal Park, Clute, Texas
In addition to the world's largest mosquito -- a 26 ft. Texas mosquito complete with a cowboy hat, boots, gigantic wings and a big stinger -- there's a mosquito-calling contest, a dodge-ball sting tournament, and a contest for the best-looking Mosquito legs. Who will be crowned this year's Mr. or Ms. Mosquito Legs? You'll just have to buzz on by to find out. Don't forget your bug spray. http://mosquitofestival.com

Tug Fest When: August 9--11
Where: LeClaire, Iowa and Port Byron, Illinois
For 20 years, the town of LeClaire has taken on its rival across the river, Port Byron, in the annual Tug Fest. A 2,400-foot rope weighing 680 pounds is stretched across the Mississippi River and teams on either side of the river tug away for bragging rights. This year the tug takes place on Saturday, August 11 at 1 p.m.. The contest also includes live music, rides, and foods. As it stands, the score is Iowa 10, Illinois 9. Who will rule the river this year? www.tugfest.com; www.tugfest.org

---Alexis C. Kelly
Fodor's editors Maria Burwell, Sarah Cullen, Maggie Kelly, Heidi Johansen, and Adam Taplin contributed to this report


Do you know of any WackyFests? Let us know!

City Guide: Camden, Maine

Mid-coast Maine (Penobscot Bay in particular) is the most beautiful part of the state. Camden is family friendly town with loads of recrfeational and photo opportunities within a short drive.


Where the mountains seet the sea, Camden is a popular destination. The harbor, the architecture, the landscape, and recreational features are vast and varied; and the food is pretty darned good too (hint: Cappy's Chowder House).

With a river running through town and emptying into the harbor as a waterfall, there are some great photography choices (hint: footbrige in early evening). Many of the shops and boathouses are built on pilings that are set into the water.

There are parks within walking distance to town as well as a short drive away, where you'll find warm water fun on the many lakes and ponds.

You can also hike or drive, up one of the mountains in Camden Hills State Park for sensational vistas (hint: bring a tripod, and go during leaf-peeper season).


Camden is also especially dog-friendly
Ol' Ralf can swim, chase balls (or sticks) in the inner harbor, and get fresh water at one on many dog bowls put out by local businesses along the sidewalks. Poop-bag dispenser boxes are conveniently scattered around the parks, and there are even a couple of doggie boutiques.

The two hotels that are down town, the Lord Camden Inn and the Camden Riverhouse Inn and Suites, each have dog policies.

Other photo oportunities are numerous and varied too. Morning and evening light in the harbor and parks can be magical (I don't say that things are magical very often; it's just not a word I normally use, but the light at thosae times is pretty cool). The wiki map below shows some of the places we like (give me a few more days to get little photos in the map please), you can add your favorites too.

Things to do with kids:
Play in a park or on the beach -- At Camden's inner harbor is a grassy park great for exploring the beach, picnicing, relaxing, or burning off steam. There are also lot's of ducks here. You can also head south on Bay View Street and you'll get to a little park on the left with swingsets, playground, and a semi-sandy beach great for swimming, sunbathing, or exploring intertidal sea life.


Walk the breakwater out to Rockland light house
This 1 mile round trip is a fun way to get a little excercise after dinner, a good photography opportunities, and a popular fishing spot. Kids love to run along breakwaters on top the rocks, and when they run this one, you can bet they'll be tired enough to go to bed without much guff!
Swim at Lincolnville Beach -- a sandy beach on the rocky coast. There's a good little seafood stand down by the ferry terminal and there are some stores for kids to pick up souveneirs, sodas, and sweets. At low tide, you can walk way, way out and look for sand dollars.
Ride the ferry to Islesboro -- board at Lincolnville beach, north of Camden. Get some fried clams at the clam stand while you wait.

Visit Camden Hills State Park -- Auto road up Mount Battie, trails up Bald Rock Mountain and Maiden's Cliff, camping in the campground.

See the National toboggan Championship races at Camden Snow Bowl (or ski there)
Cruise the Bay on a Schooner! book passage on the waterfront.
Places to eat:
Cappy's Chowder House -- You've got to eat at Cappy's at least once. A great lunch or dinner spot (tip: try the chowder). Kid's meals come in big cardboard classic cars. It's crowded, but in the off hours, seating isn't such a problem. Bloody Marys got greast reviews from the folks I sat next last.
Camden House of Pizza has the best pizza; at least if you like traditional pizza. Good for eating in the room while doing laundry and packing the night before leaving for home.
Su Casa -- A great Mexican restaurant opened by two guys: one from Corpus Cristi and the other from Ecuador via Seattle. The salsa is fresh pico de gallo, and the entrees are fantastic. The margeritas are nothing to shake a stick at either.
Camden Deli -- good sandwiches, good coffee, enclosed sun room seating overlooking the harbor. A little congested up front, but there's plenty of room in the back.

Mariner's Grill -- A kid-friendly restaurant with "The best haddock sandwich I've ever had!" says Tinsley. And the cole slaw was "to die for". A nice quiet peaceful place to get away from the mob; the service was fast and friendly. The blueberry pancakes are awesome as well. And there's a deck overlooking the harbor.
Peter Otts Tavern has been the traditional fine dining choice in Camden, but reviews of this placu under its new ownership haven't been great.

Places to stay:
Camden Riverhouse Inn and Suites -- our favorite for the homey one bedroom suites.
Norembega Castle -- great place for a second (or first) honeymoon.
Lord Camden Inn -- haven't stayed there, but the balconies look over Main Street and the harbor. It could be a nice place to stay.

9 Classic Northeastern Shore Towns


The towns chosen by Fodor's are the more upscale ones. Also check out Belfast, Maine (north of Camden), Old Orchard Beach, Maine for family fun, Mystic, CT, and The Cape Cod National Seashore. And the Moxie Festival in Lisbon Falls, ME July 13-157th or so...

9 Classic Northeastern Shore Towns

For Northeasterners, the lazy days of summer are best spent at "the shore" in one of the many small beach towns along the East Coast. Though the crowds can get thick, the vibe remains friendly and laid-back. Here are a few favorites -- starting with the jewel of the Jersey Shore and moving north to Maine's coast.

062106_virginiahotelcapemay.jpgCape May, New Jersey
The southernmost point in New Jersey, believed to be the oldest beachfront resort in the country, is a National Historic Landmark. Cape May today retains more than 600 Victorian-era houses, built from the mid-1800s to the early 1900s. Many have found new life as B&Bs, inns, and restaurants.
Eating Out: In a town with no shortage of good restaurants, Washington Inn reigns as the spot for a special dinner at the shore.
Sleeping In: Forget frumpy. For classy lodging, book a room well in advance at the Virginia Hotel. (photo, right)
Tip: The Cape May "diamonds" -- pebbles of pure, rounded quartz -- that wash up on the shore of Sunset Beach (within walking distance from the Cape May Lighthouse) are yours for the taking.

Southampton, New York
Like much of Long Island's Hamptons, Southampton is a magnet for affluent summer breakers from "the city" (New York, that is). The beaches, like the people that gather on them, are beautiful.
Eating Out: The small village of Water Mill, one mile east of Southampton, is proud of its star restaurant, Mirko's.
Sleeping In: The Hamptons are all about splurging -- a stay at The Inn at Box Farm is a worthwhile one.
Tip: For a fee, you can stretch out on Cooper's Beach, studying the sea in one direction and historic mansions -- including Calvin Klein's massive manse -- in the other. 268 Meadow Lane.

Montauk, New York
Twelve long miles of windswept road, aptly named the Napeague Stretch, separate Montauk from the Hamptons. Surrounded by water on three sides, Montauk is known for its distinct natural beauty and rustic, laid-back vibe.
Eating Out: Sidle up to the bar at Shagwong Tavern for something refreshing -- on a busy night you'll have to wait your turn to savor its delectable seafood fare.
Sleeping In: Bigger is better at the Montauk Manor.
Tip: The Montauk Trolley traverses the sights of Montauk---the village, the lighthouse, the harbor, and several parks -- on 90 minute tours from Memorial Day weekend through Columbus Day. Same-day-ticket holders are allowed all-day boarding privileges (15 stops), which makes this a great way to get around. Tours begin at the Chamber of Commerce, Main Street across from the village green.

062106_blockislandISTOCKfinal.jpgBlock Island, Rhode Island
Well-preserved Block Island, 12 miles off Rhode Island's Coast, boats 17 miles of sandy beaches. The Old Harbor area is the island's only village and visitors will find the majority of the island's inns and hotels here.
Eating Out: For something casual, head to Finn's, a local institution. If you're seeking something more formal, Eli's serves up delectable Italian.
Sleeping In: Guests can expect elaborate breakfasts and immaculate grounds at the Atlantic Inn.
Tip: The Greenway, a well-maintained trail system, meanders across the island, but some of the best hikes are along the beaches. You can hike around the entire island in about eight hours.

Newport, Rhode Island
Larger than most harbor towns, Newport is a haven for recreational sailors. For those not arriving by water, a boat tour of the harbor is a great way to get your feet wet.
Eating Out: Enjoy fine dining in a garage at Asterisk.
Sleeping In: The panoramic views are almost as expansive as the list of amenities on offer at Castle Hill and Resort.
Tip: Easton's Beach (also called First Beach) is the beginning of the Cliff Walk, a spectacular 3 1/2-mile path, which runs south along Newport's cliffs to Bailey's Beach. The promenade has views of sumptuous mansions on one side and the rocky coastline on the other.

Edgartown, Massachusetts
Once a well-to-do whaling port, Martha's Vineyard's Edgartown has managed to preserve the elegance of that wealthy era. 062106_winnetuEdgartownFinal.jpgLining the streets are 18th- and 19th- century sea captains' houses, many painted white with black shutters, set among well-manicured gardens and lawns.
Eating Out: For a special evening out, head to Alchemy for upscale French fare.
Sleeping In: Winnetu Inn and Resorts is a top hotel on the island for both couples and families. (photo, right)
Tip: While Edgartown's South Beach reigns as the town's most popular sandy strip, sunbathers in search of a little peace and quiet should head to Little Beach. From here you can look across and see the lighthouse at Cape Poge, at the northern tip of Chappaquiddick.

Nantucket Town, Massachusetts
The center of island activity, just as it has been since the early 1700s, Nantucket Town on the island of Nantucket consists of only a few square blocks of mostly historical buildings, lovingly restored inns, and boutiques and galleries leading up from the pretty harbor and waterfront, where the ferries dock.
Eating Out: Locals and visitors line-up outside of Black-Eyed Susan's for a chance to sample a menu that straddles the globe.
Sleeping In: A night's rest can be pretty pricey here; Seven Sea Street is a particularly good value.
Tip: The Steamship Authority runs car-and-passenger ferries to Nantucket year-round. The trip takes just over 2 hours. If you plan to bring a car in the summer or weekends in the fall, you must have a reservation. Book as far ahead as possible.

Provincetown, Massachusetts
Cape Cod's smallest town, Provincetown is a place of liberating creativity and substantial diversity. In the busy downtown, Portuguese-American fishermen mix with painters, poets, writers, whale-watching families, and gay and lesbian residents and visitors.
Eating Out: Re-fuel from an afternoon walk at Clem & Ursie's, a local favorite for laid-back dining---there are plenty of seafood favorites to go around.
Sleeping In: With fireplaces and whirlpool tubs in some rooms and an on-site full service spa, the Crowne Pointe Historic Inn makes for one of Provincetown's most refined stays.
Tip: Race Point Beach, one of the Cape Cod National Seashore beaches in Provincetown, has a wide swath of sand stretching far off into the distance around the point and Coast Guard station. Because of its position on a point facing north, the beach gets sun all day long, whereas the east coast beaches get fullest sun early in the day.

062106_windjammerweekendfinal.jpgCamden, Maine
More than any other town along the Penobscot Bay, Camden is the perfect picture-postcard of a Maine coastal village. Exposed as such, the tiny town is uber-popular -- don't expect to be savoring that lobster roll down by the harbor solo.
Eating Out: Cappy's Chowder House is a local institution; a bowl of "chowdah" is an essential order.
Sleeping In: Check-in to Norumbega Inn, Maine's most photographed piece of real estate.
Tip: One of the town's biggest and most colorful annual events, Windjammer Weekend is the single largest gathering of windjammer ships in the world.

Photo Credits: (1) Courtesy of the Virginia Inn; (2) Block Island Beach, Matthew Pisani; (3) Courtesy of Winnetu Inn and Resorts; (4) Courtesy of Windjammer Weekend

Weekend Philly Trip

Philly is a very walkable city with great architecture, food, and nice folks. In short, Philly is Phantastic!
(sorry, I couldn't resist)




I wanted to drop in on the Congress for New Urbanism conference in Philadelphia a couple of weeks ago. I wanted to meet some of people who were speaking there, so I really only needed to take a couple of hours on Saturday and again on Sunday to listen to their presentation and then schmooze afterward. As a roadtrip-addicted family, we used the opportunity to have another FamilyRoadtripper weekend adventure.

We had never really been to Philly before and we were happily surprised at how cool it is. We'll be back, early and often!

As usual, we took back roads
We try to avoid interstates unless we're truly in a hurry, or if it's night time and there is nothing but dark to see out the windows. We took 84 west to Port Jervis, and then hopped onto the back roads whittling our way to Route 611 along the Delaware River (a great American back road) and right into the heart of Philly (see the map below). The road ended three blocks from our hotel, so in addition to being a scenic route, it was a direct route too.

Before going, I went to Fodor's forum to ask advice about kid-friendly places and activities. As usual, the Fodorites had a handful of tips and tactical advice.

At the top of the list was the Reading Terminal Market
What a great place. Almost everything you need under one roof. I say almost because we didn't actually explore the whole place enough to be sure that something was missing, but just about everything I need was there: Mexican food, sushi, Greek food, Philly Cheese Steaks, jalepeno hummus (!), beer garden, wine store, bakery, ice cream restaurant, bee store (bees wax, honey, etc), toys, post cards, beer garden, fresh fruit, vegetables, seafood, meats, flowers, coffee, did I say beer garden?

Needless to say, we started the days at the public market, and ended them there as well. We went to the Liberty Bell and the Independence Mall, taking the advice of PaulRabe not to stand in line to see the Liberty Bell because you can see it through the window, and the kids can play on the mall.

China town was right there by our hotel, and Tinsley found herself in seventh heaven when she noticed a Chinese dollar store. All of the kitchy little Chinese lanterns and budahs and dragons that you see in Chinese restaraunts for a buck. It so happened that this weekend was Lilly's second birthday, so Tinsley bought a bunch of party supplies (noisemakers, silly hats, a mask for lilly...) and we had a birthday party up in the hotel room, then Lilly got a birthday bath and went to bed!

Below is a little map with our stops:

Early Road Trip Memories: Relative Prosperity

Little things can polish the luster of a family trip.

Interesting thread at Fodor’s this morning about earliest childhood travel memories. A couple of things surface: It doesn’t take much to make a great memory, and the kids are usually quite oblivious to the nightmares that their parents may be experiencing.

I guess my earliest road trip memory is driving to Belfast, Maine for Thanksgiving with my Mom and Sister. We were “going home” to Grammy and Grampy Grady’s farm. The car was an old VW bug. It was black with a lot of chips, scrapes and miscellaneous dings. My Mom called it "Ol' Paint", which is a nickname for old horses. The car was in rough shape but it ran reliably, and it was paid for. The floorboards were rusted through, so Mom used to remind us to keep our feet up (though we were small enough that they probably didn't touch the floor anyway). It was an ongoing source of fascination for me: thinking about watching the road as it sped underfoot. Like a floor window, right underneath that floor mat. Truthfully, I think Grampy had welded some pieces of sheet metal over the holes, which were probably the size of a dime, but my imagination said "floor window."


Traveling was always an adventure in Ol' Paint, and this trip offered a little something extra: a snow storm. Driving at night is mystical to kids, but adding a blizzard of white in the headlights was delightful; but maybe a little less so to Mom. Traveling along Route 1, at night, in a snow storm, with two chatterboxes had to be challenging (ask me how I know this). It being the non-tourist season, finding an open motel added another layer of complexity.

The motel memory is brief but vivid. When my Mom opened the door, a new world gleamed through. Everything was different; it was like a big bedroom with two big beds and living room all mixed together. And a bathroom! And a color TV! And green rayon bedspreads! My sister and I jumped up and down on the bed until my Mom convinced (threatened?) us to go to bed.

The morning after a snowstorm is always magical, but after waking up in a motel during such an arduous journey, this one was supernatural. Sunlight gleaming into a blanket of white crystals, even the roads where white and clean. And slippery! After breakfast in a little local diner we continued on our journey to Belfast. I don't recall arriving or the preliminary activities; my recollection fast forwards to the dinner.

The elaborate table setting saturated my senses, but my clearest memory is a visual one. All of the special dinnerware that had normally been stored in Grammy’s china cabinets was laid out on the table. The anticipation built with each dish that emerged from the kitchen. And being
too small for the chair, my eyes were just about table height, so the view was even more dramatic, looking through the maze of silver platters, China serving dishes, and crystal water goblets. Soft light glistened off the roast turkey. That Thanksgiving dinner became the standard by which all Thanksgiving dinners have been measured, and none have measured up. But that’s a good thing.

Thinking about it now, the holiday was probably a special celebration for my Grandparents too. Maybe it represented success. Life may have been simple on the farm in Maine, but it wasn't easy. No electricity or running water. Most likely no automobile, just horses named Ol' Paint... I imagine this dinner represented an overwhelming giving of thanks: not only had they all survived and stayed healthy, but the kids were happily married, with healthy children, and, rusted floorboards notwithstanding, doing well. The hard work invested in their children was reaping dividends in the form of grandchildren. And relative prosperity.

What are your early road trip memories?

Great Eastern Drives: Portland, ME Lighthouses

Lighthouses played an important role in American maritime history both during peacetime and war. There are also architectural lessons to be had...


“Dad?”
“Yes Tom?”
“Can we go on a road trip soon?”
It’s not often that a six year old asks that question. So I set one up; a quick trip to Portland, ME to scout a couple of job sites for photo shoots (I'm an editor and photographer for a residential construction magazine).

“I have you in a non smoking king room for three nights, is that correct?”
Looking down at Tom, I asked the desk clerk to switch us to a room with two doubles (I figured I'd upgrade Tommy from the pull-out couch to a big bed so he could stay up late and watch Letterman with me). When we got up to the room, Tommy promptly dragged a blanket off one of the beds and climbed under the desk.
“Dad, can you put the blanket over the table so I can have a sleeping fort?”
I should have kept the king bed. But the sleeping fort did a good job: Tommy slept in ‘til around 8:00 each morning. After a late breakfast at the hotel, a visit to the jobsite from around 10 to 11, and lunch at a chowder house (Gilbert's Chowder House has extremely good clam chowda), we went off in search of light houses in the afternoon.

The job site visits worked out well, one had a big dirt pile covered with snow. Tommy put on his snow pants and had a blast while I talked with the builder and scouted photo angles. The other site had a gravel basement and the architect told Tommy he could throw rocks at the wall all he wanted.

We were able to visit four light houses all together:
Portland Breakwater Light
Portland Head Light
Spring Point Ledge Light
and Cape Elizabeth Light
We also saw Ram Island Ledge Light, but because it’s on an island, we weren’t able to visit this time, maybe next time.


The weather was cold and windy. Very cold and windy!
You can see Tommy hiding behind the sign on the way to the Portland Breakwater Light (known locally as Bug Light) to get out of the wind. I didn’t really expect to walk out there, but he just kept on walking, so I followed. As it turns out, this light house was built in 1855, but there was no keeper’s house built. The poor guy had to scamper over the breakwater in winter against the wind, over the ice and getting slapped with the spray. Just like we did. That keeper kept scrambling until 1889 when a keeper’s cabin was built out there.

Tip: Visit lighthouses in June or July, not February

Bug Light is a really cool light house. It’s short, only 26 feet tall, but its design is beautiful. A cast iron tower with fluted Corinthian columns. Apparently, its design is based on a Greek Monument built in the fourth century B.C., the Choragis Monument of Lysicrates (good opportunity to teach a little about classical architecture).

Commissioned by President George Washington in 1790 Portland Head Light is the oldest lighthouse in Maine.
It’s also likely the most famous light house in Maine, and certainly the most famous in our family as my Dad was unknowingly photographed as he sailed past it back in the 1970s and the photo was reprinted on postcards, calendars and placemats. The tower is 80 ft. tall. Portland head light has a museum that's open to the public from May through October. The lighthouse also adjacent to Fort Williams Park, an old army fort that never saw action, although it was fully manned during WWI.

Spring Point Light is at the end of a long breakwater
which was built to cover the underlying ledge that the lighthouse marks. Completed in 1897 and located in Fort Preble Park, a war of 1812 fort which also saw some action during the Civil War when some Rebs tried to raid Portland Harbor. There is a playground at the park, so it’s a good destination in warm weather.

Cape Elizabeth Lighthouse is actually two lighthouses, the twins.
But they’re not twins. Nor are they both visible in my photo at the far right. Located on private land they’re best viewed from an amazing beach accessible from the parking lot of a nice seafood restaurant (eat there). Built in 1874, the two 65-foot towers served as range lights for the ship captains. Because one was due west of the other, mariners approaching Portland Harbor would line them up to verify their course.
(The comments section of this blog has plenty of room, so c'mon in!)